Sunday, December 7, 2008

New England meets Choibalsan

Recently, we performed our best Chef Emile and Julia Childish imitations and helped out some friends who just opened a restaurant here. We were asked to conduct a TV cooking show, teaching Mongolian viewers how to prepare a couple simple foods with local ingredients as a way to help promote their new business. We thought it was a good idea and we had lots of fun doing it. And we're now famous in these parts. Now, more of the stares we continue to attract everyday are coupled with grins of recognition.

We wanted to prepare foods that were relatively simple, used only locally-obtainable ingredients, are culturally-relevant to us and are tasty. Jim demonstated a New England chowder recipe, suitable for a dairy-based diet and the approaching winter (it was -25C, yesterday). Meanwhile, Julie dazzled with a delicious apple cake that drew raves and sang a beautiful Mongolian song for the audience. Of course, the best part of the experience was the eating when we were done taping.












A teaser promotional ad aired for about a week before the broadcast. The ad featured many shots of me cooking and of Julie singing. The local producer likes to play with his studio gadgets and sped up the tape of Julie's song. She sounded like one of the chipmunks, which was cute. Upon seeing the ad, the elderly mom of Julie's co-worker called her daughter and asked a perfectly reasonable question: why was Julie singing while I did all the work? For us, that's an adorable cultural reflection...besides being a pertinent question in my domestic life. Why, indeed?

Friday, November 28, 2008

His First Haircut

In the fall, I was invited to attend the hair-cutting ceremony of my counterpart Saranchimeg's 3 year old son, Zolbayar. We had learned about this ceremony during training, but I had never been able to attend one, so I was really honored and happy to be invited. In my understanding, the ceremony marks the transition from "babyhood" to "childhood" for boys and girls, and occurs between the ages of 2 and 6. Infancy, especially for children in herding families, is a vulnerable time. Many herding families have little to no access to medical facilities. So, a child making it through this time is something worth celebrating. The hair-cutting ceremony is a ritual held, in part, for that purpose. Traditionally, a lama would tell the parents which year is best for their child, and many families still consult lamas for this purpose.


As with seemingly all Mongolian gatherings, there was an over-abundance of food, including the requisite aruul (dried milk curd), potato salad, carrot salad, buuz, fruits, and suutai tai (milk tea). Saranchimeg and her husband put out a lovely and delicious spread, and their young niece helped serve food. It was a relatively small gathering -- mostly the other foreign language teachers from our school, though the ceremony is sometimes much larger and sometimes even smaller.


















Passing of the airag (fermented mare's milk) got the ceremony started. The airag was in a beautiful pewter bowl, and each person took a sip before cutting Saranchimeg's son's hair.



Zolbayar walked around the table, while each guest took a turn cutting off a small lock of hair and placing it on a pewter tray. Before cutting, we wrapped a ceremonial hadaag (silk sash or scarf) around our hand and the scissors. After cutting, each person said a small "prayer" for the child's happiness and well-being in the future.


















He very patiently allowed each of us to cut his hair, a glass of juice and Mom's touch making it all a little easier. When the cutting was finished, we ate many buuz and talked about life, and I felt very fortunate to be part of this special gathering. Saranchimeg wrapped the hair in silk and put it away, to be given to Zolbayar when he is older. Zolbayar, meanwhile, was given the cash collected for the occasion, and though he didn't seem to know quite what to do with it, he seemed to understand that it was something to hold on to--and he did so for the rest of the time we were there!




Tuesday, November 25, 2008

My Camp Songs Obsession Finds an Outlet in Mongolia!



WE FINISHED OUR CD AND SONGBOOK!!!

As some of you know, my friend Kevin and I have been working on a project to create a cd and songbook for Mongolian and Peace Corps English teachers to use in the classroom. Now, after several months of scheming, proposal writing, budget planning (with LOADS of help from the budget-master himself, Jimmy, of course), materials purchasing, RECORDING, editing & mixing, printing and burning, our project is (practically) complete! We're burning the final of the 275 cds, and distribution of the cd/songbook 53-song sets will begin next month.
Kevin and I are both really happy with how the cds and songbooks turned out. And the process of creating them, while peppered with snafus and moments of frustration, was satisfying and loads of fun--especially the hours spent recording with my students. Kevin brought his laptop to Cho (he lives in Selenge aimag, north west of Ulaanbaatar, a 20-hour bus ride away), and we recorded everything on his Garageband program in classrooms.
One of the 4th grade classes we recorded with. They sang "My Grandfather Had a Farm" (we've been learning family names) and "Bingo," which featured "my grandfather" as well.

Most of the songs were sung by my 8th grade students, immediately after learning them. They're remarkably fast learners! Sometimes I would sing the song just once, they'd sing it 3 or 4 times, then we'd record. Now, I won't say they sound professional, and there are moments that my high school choir director would have had heart palpitations over, but the teachers and students who listen can easily follow along with the words and tunes of each song.


















My 8th
graders in one of our smaller sessions.
The impetus for the project was a desire to share songs with Mongolian teachers that can be easily sung and memorized, in order to increase students' speaking fluency. Many teachers use full-length songs from pop singers to help with vocabulary and grammar study. But often those songs are really difficult to learn well. So I decided to use my love of camp songs, and (after 15+ years as a camp counselor) the vast storage of songs that dance around endlessly in my brain to create this teaching cd for English language teachers. Kevin, my exceedingly talented friend, agreed to take on the project with me and was just as enthusiastic about it as I was. He is a whiz with Garageband, and was able to turn a bunch of kids singing in a classroom into a real live, high quality cd. And, considering he has always hated "camp songs," preferring to write his own music in the vein of Pearl Jam and Tool, he was an awesome sport, even agreeing to sing a few of the songs (including "Itsy Bitsy Spider"!) himself. And speaking of "guest singers," Jimmy even puts in a performance or two (you should hear his sheep noises --uncannilly real)

Kevin & I during the "scheming" phase, in his ger in Selenge.


So now, as we receive help from our friend Boloroo at the Peace Corps office in UB in the form of cd burning, we have turned much of the project over to PC staff who will distribute the cds and songbooks to volunteers and schools. We are happy to say that Peace Corps Mongolia is also very pleased with the final product and has endorsed it and offered their help with it enthusiastically. I think that in the years to come, as I look back on this Peace Corps experience, this cd and the creation of it with my students and Kevin will be the thing I feel was our biggest achievement. I have such a great sense of satisfaction about it, and I look forward to sharing it with folks back in the States when we return next summer!

Following are just a smattering of photos from recording sessions and times when we made music JUST for fun!












Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Anna Home






Did we tell you the kids here don't come any cuter? In our short time, we've been fortunate to play and work with the kids and staff of Anna Home, a safe haven for neglected children. This is a special project that offers much hope for a few kids and the Choibalsan community.


In 2006, the home's director Boldsaihan took the initiative to rescue homeless or neglected kids from the city's underground water tunnels. Without stable homes, people of all ages find warmth in bitter cold winters huddling near hot water mains. Manholes are their doorways. Boldsaihan first housed the kids in a basement and scraped together resources to feed and shelter them. In 2007, VSO volunteer Maarten Stoffels entered their lives.






Maarten, with the generosity of his Dutch contacts, helped Boldsaihan buy a house and land establishing the Anna Home residence. Foreign contributors meet the housing, food and development needs of 25 children who now share this very modest space. Last spring, upon his departure from Mongolia, Maarten asked Jim to assist with communications, project development activities and in the home's operations. Jim also serves as Boldsaihan's management mentor helping to develop long-term skills so that Boldsaihan may eventually operate the home as a fully-capable director.


Anna Home has experienced some big successes this year, not least of which were the drilling of a well, the building of a well house and piping of running water into the house.




























Now, we are preparing for three major projects. In the spring, we hope to develop a property that will serve as a transitional home for young adults. When the children reach 18, the goal is to have a home and support in place where they can learn work and life skills in a semi-independent setting. They would be prepared for supporting themselves as capable adults in their lives beyond Anna Home's embrace.

Next summer, one project will be renovating the existing interior with new energy-efficient windows, new doors, trim, flooring and paint. The second summer project is huge: a building addition which would include giving the building a bathroom, storage space, a large classroom, computer and sewing classrooms and a carpentry shop. We believe it is not enough to improve the current living standards for the kids. The children must be prepared with social and vocational skills as well to help break the stranglehold of poverty here.
To the left, we've added a link to Anna Home's website, which Maarten maintains from The Netherlands. For the home, the long-term aim is to create an enduring refuge and training ground for Choibalsan children who have no other options and doing so with sustainable local support. Until then, maybe you'd like to pitch in.















Saturday, September 13, 2008

Friends

We've shown folks quite a few shots of our Mongolian friends and family. We thought you might also like to see some of the other Peace Corps and VSO volunteers we love to spend time with here. Some of the most wonderful people on the planet...






Outside one of our favorite restaurants in UB: Kevin, Amber, me, Jasmine, Jimmy, Jen, Brodie, Chris, Rachel and Phillip



Our farewell party crew for Matt (center, front), who finished his service in Mongolia and headed off to Cambodia for another (non Peace Corps) year of service!




Part of my Darkhan summer crew: Robin, Amber, Kim (M17), Carina,
Dwan and me

Mai and Kenny (who are now, VERY sadly for us anyway, back in America, after having completed their 2 years here in Cho) We miss them so much!
Some of the great friends that we spent much of our first year in Cho with. Most of them have, alas, gone on to other places (except for Sarah, lower right, who's still in Cho with us!). Back row, left to right: Angus (Scotland), Andie (England), Maarten (in back, from Amsterdam), Kaye (France), Cass (a different soum in Mongolia), Joke, (Amsterdam), Mai (NY), Jimmy. Front row: Yann (France), Kenny (from America but now studying in London), Sarah.



Jimmy with his posse from Sukhbaatar: Jimmy, Fahd, Salomon and Mike




The blue-eyed gang from Cho: JP (Mai's friend who visited from US) Jimmy Karen (VSO, from Scotland) Andie (VSO, from England & Africa) Kenny




Jimmy and Mike





Chris and Kevin





M17s Mike and Ashley Burden, who have also, very sadly for us, finished their service and returned to America



VSOers, Raj (from India), John & Patricia (from England) at our place in Cho.





Raj, John (M19) and our M18 Sarah

The newest Chobies:
Lindsay and Trinh (Jasmine, one of our M18s, in the middle)





Me and Jess




We hope all of our American friends and family get to meet all of these great people some day!




Sunday, August 24, 2008

Make That Four




Mongolia added their third and fourth medals with a gold from boxer Badar-Uugan, who dominated his weight class, and by Serdamda who settled for silver after a shoulder injury ended his pursuit for the title. Two golds and two silvers is celebrated wildly here as a country of just over 2 million people achieves great relative success. Congratulations to the winners!!!





Serdamba on the left

Saturday, August 16, 2008

All That Glitters...







This country and the capital Ulaanbaatar were jumping for joy Thursday night with Mongolia’s first EVER Olympic gold medal. Tuvshinbayar N., now a national hero, took the men’s 100kg judo title and the partying began with impromptu revelry and fireworks. Thousands whooped it up on UB’s Sukhbaatar Square. It would be too strong to say that the people consider it a mark of their “arrival,” but their world standing is progressing. They have a silver medal also, earned by the pistol-packing Gundegmaa O, who came within millimeters of winning gold, herself. And I dare say that the Mongolian boxing team is right there alongside America’s for quality depth.

It’s an interesting contrast between Mongolia and home regarding Olympic success. On the one hand, we have this small nation trying to find its way in the world positively ecstatic with a single gold medal. Then, there’s America’s Michael Phelps who could win eight of them by himself. To me, it’s another lesson in trying to take nothing for granted and appreciate the simplest gifts.

We have been able to see vastly more Olympic coverage than of any previous games. The competitions have been available, virtually wall-to-wall, on five stations: three Mongolian, a Chinese and a Russian sports channel. Though I’m an obvious USA and Mongolia fan, it is a great experience to watch the Beijing games on Chinese television – despite not knowing the language. The excitement the people are feeling being hosts, and brilliantly successful ones by athletic standards, is so clear in all the cheers and smiles…..government behavior and scandal aside.

Meanwhile, it’s nice to now feel strongly about two nation’s success at the games.


Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Political Troubles

While we were at our camp in the countryside last week, we had heard only about a fire at the Revolutionary Party headquarters in the wake of the party’s very successful election results. When we returned to Choibalsan, we learned with great sadness of the rioting that took place in the capital on July 1st. In sum, the MPRP did much better than polls had previously suggested, winning a large majority of parliamentary seats. Many people expected the rival Democratic Party to do equally-well, but expectations were not met. Amid allegations of election fraud, agitators turned a peaceful protest into a riot, torching the MPRP building, a national art museum, police station while looting cultural centers and shops. There were several deaths.
A four-day state of emergency (since annulled) was declared in UB, and a 10pm curfew and alcohol ban were imposed. From what we gather, the riots were confined to UB and did not impact life here in Choibalsan. Discussions are underway between the political parties to redress grievances. We hope people will be able to resolve their differences and decide matters, peacefully.

Here is a related piece by Edward Wong that appeared in the International Herald Tribune:


A Challenge for Mongolia's Democracy
By Edward Wong
Tuesday, July 8, 2008


ULAN BATOR, Mongolia: The charred shells of two Soviet-style buildings rising from the center of this capital stand as a warning of the dangers of mixing vodka with voter frustration. In a barren land where nomads still gallop across pastures to polling booths, that potent mix led last week to the literal gutting of some of the country's most prominent political and cultural institutions. Now, with an election in dispute, Mongolia's fledgling democracy faces its biggest challenge since its birth in 1990.

Following cries of fraud in parliamentary elections - accusations that were disputed by international election observers - hundreds of rioters, many of them drunk attacked the headquarters of the dominant political party and the neighboring national art gallery on July 1. Fires were started. Five people were killed. More than 1,000 pieces of artwork were destroyed, damaged or looted.

"Poverty and corruption are eating away at our democracy," said Tsedevdamba Oyungerel, a Stanford-educated politician who ran for Parliament but lost (though she did receive 10 male horses as gifts while campaigning in the countryside.) To Oyungerel, who like many Mongolians goes by her given name, just as shocking as the violence was the government's reaction - it declared a four-day state of emergency, sent soldiers into the streets and shut down television and radio stations. The outburst of violence was without precedent in democratic Mongolia, and many here - from sheepherders to business executives - are deeply ashamed of what unfolded.
"I thought, 'This is totally wrong,' " said Gansuren, a bartender at a karaoke club.

Much is at stake for the United States as Mongolia struggles to right itself. With a population of three million scattered across a country the size of Alaska, it is, as one Mongolian leader put it last week, the only democracy between the Sea of Japan and Eastern Europe. Mongolia has supplied troops for the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan, and the former secretary of defense, Donald Rumsfeld, was given a horse when he visited in 2005 (he left it behind). "Since the overarching aim of our foreign policy is to promote the expansion of democratic society in the world, Mongolia is a poster child for that," said Mark Minton, the American ambassador here. "It's my strong belief that democracy is here to stay in Mongolia."

The state of emergency ended Sunday, and much seems back to normal now in the capital. A wedding couple poses for photos in the central square. A herder leads three loping camels through the streets. The Grand Khaan Irish Pub is packed. But the country faces two major problems: resolving the contentious election - the official results still have not been announced - and identifying the cause of the recent violence.

Though many Mongolians say the riot was a criminal act, the anger most likely bubbled up from economic frustrations. Inflation has soared to 26 percent, Mongolians complain about corruption, and officials disagree on control mining rights to the country's immense mineral wealth. Prime Minister Sanjaagiin Bayar defended the state of emergency on Saturday night, saying the government, which is ruled by the Mongolian People's Revolutionary Party, or MPRP, was concerned with preventing further disturbances. But Oyungerel and other senior members of the main opposition group, the Democratic Party, accused the government of using the riot as a pretext for quashing dissent. The only television station allowed to broadcast from Wednesday to Saturday was the national network.

On the surface, Mongolia is an unlikely place for an experiment in democracy. The home of Genghis Khan, it is the most sparsely populated country in the world. Half the population still lives in round felt tents called gers, and livestock outnumber humans eight to one. Yet Mongolia's literacy rate is 98 percent, a legacy of nearly seven decades of Communist rule. The country held a constitutional referendum in 1990 and a vote in 1992 that led to its first democratic change of Parliament. Since then, it had held peaceful elections every four years - until June 29.

Preliminary results announced shortly after the voting showed that the MPRP won 45 seats; the Democratic Party 28 seats; and three small parties one seat each. Those numbers would give the governing party the majority it needs in the 76-seat Parliament to form a government. In a news conference on July 1, however, the leader of the Democratic Party and a former prime minister, Tsakhiagiin Elbegdorj, accused the MPRP of vote fraud. That assertion was challenged by the 52 foreign observation teams that went to polling stations on June 29. "In each of those cases, in each of the instances where we observed any part of the process, we were struck by the degree of rigor," said Bill Infante, country representative for the Asia Foundation, a group that promotes democracy, whose observers visited 100 of about 1,700 stations.

Nevertheless, on the afternoon of July 1 several leaders of smaller parties held a rally at the capital's central plaza, Sukhbaatar Square. The protest began peacefully. But in time an angry crowd of young men formed in front of the five-story headquarters of the governing party, next to the square. Soon they were throwing rocks and storming the building. Police officers fired tear gas and rubber-coated bullets. Nothing worked. The rioters started fires at dusk. They broke into a duty-free shop on the first floor and grabbed the liquor. And some were already carrying bottles of cheap Mongolian vodka. "It was a pity to see how they were demolishing quite expensive drinks," said Sumati, a pollster here. "It's $30 or $40 a bottle. It's really not cheap."

Rioters barged into the museum next door, the Mongolian National Modern Art Gallery. They set fire to the building at 11:30 p.m. and made off with some wood and ivory carvings, said Enkhtsetseg, the museum director. Two storage rooms with modernist oil paintings suffered fire damage, as did a wing of traditional art that included tapestries, paintings and carvings. Of the museum's 5,000 pieces, more than a fifth were destroyed, damaged or stolen, Enkhtsetseg said. None are insured.

"I have no idea how to put a value on this," she said as she chain-smoked in her office on Sunday (she had quit six years ago, but took it up again last week). "It's unique; we don't have anything like this. Most of the artists have passed away." Next door, in the home of a national orchestra, horse-head violins had been destroyed. The police arrested more than 700 people, and as of Saturday more than 200 were still in jail, Prime Minister Bayar said at a televised news conference that night. "The police are paying attention not to violate human rights or treat prisoners badly," he said.

But some Mongolians say prisoners have been tortured. Enkhtsetseg said a prisoner released on July 3 came to her office and showed her bruises on his back. He had been among a group of young men trying to save artwork the night of the riot but had been mistakenly arrested, Enkhtsetseg said.

As the country's leaders grapple with how to resolve the election, everyone knows nothing less than the future of Mongolia is at stake. "We made our democracy ourselves, we will defend it ourselves," Oyungerel said. "I love democracy. I want to give this society to my children."

Youth Ecology Camp

The first week of July, we helped host a youth ecology camp on a lake in northern Dornod. Julie and I assisted an environmental agency in securing funding, organizing and managing a program for Mongolian and Russian students. The kids had fun learning about water ecology, water quality monitoring, ornithology, mammalian behavior and animal tracking. Of course, there were many team-building games and songs. The kids had a lot of fun, got to connect with people from other countries and stayed healthy.